A Roast to Good Health!

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It’s been a while since I have done a post on this blog and, I have to say, it feels strange not to be documenting Marge’s journey as frequently as I once did. However, I feel it could be a good thing, a sign of my anxiety easing, that I have less of a need for an outlet to cope with the stress.

Things do seem to be getting a lot easier. The side-effects of the chemotherapy are definitely subsiding and, with every day that goes past, Marge has a bit more colour in her cheeks, her beautiful smile is getting wider and the blue of her eyes is glistening ever brighter. We all definitely feel that a corner has been turned and that we can start to look forward to this journey coming to an end.

I even managed to prise myself away from home and leave all worries and concerns at home (or at least attempt to) by going on holiday for a week. The timing was slightly unfortunate as it coincided with Marge’s second operation to get rid of some pre-cancerous cells that were found after her first op. But, good as gold as she is, I woke up in New York and was greeted to a detailed text assuring me that everything went well, that she was home safe and being looked after by the rest of the family. Being such a control freak, the fact that it wasn’t me looking after her and tending to her needs did make me feel slightly nervous, however I have learnt throughout this whole experience that I do have a habit of carrying the burden independently, like a stubborn donkey insisting on demonstrating its strength and merit. But it’s OK to relax and let other people help out, in fact it is beneficial for everyone and is conducive to a more content and less anxious environment.

Of course, this does not mean that I will be giving up my role as chef. I love how much cooking for Marge has helped her and me over the past months and have so enjoyed learning more about both nutrition and new and exciting flavour combinations. In fact, though I had the most amazing time in NYC and saw the most wonderful sights, sampled the most amazing food (I came back with a whole recipe book of ideas banked in my brain), a large part of me missed cooking. I have never experienced this when I have gone away before; I think it may be because I am cooking all the more frequently at the moment, but actually, more probably, because I have genuinely experienced the real and unparalleled joy of food since starting this blog, its healing and bonding powers.

And so, to the first meal after a brief interval – the Sunday roast. A Sunday without a roast is, quite frankly, not a true Sunday. It is missing a vital piece of the the relaxed and cosy puzzle. Yet in summer this often doesn’t feel like the appropriate meal, with its heavy meats and deep, rich gravies. The summer equinox is fast approaching and light evenings call for ever-lighter meals. However, I do not want to abandon the beloved roast completely, this would be a bit of a defeatist attitude. Instead, the roast needs its ‘summer wardrobe’.

IMG_0722Fish, to me, is such a summer staple, reminding me of warm evenings in beach-side restaurants, the sound of the waves gently floating through the air. Roasting is always a fool-proof and incredibly delicious way to cook a lot of fish. Salmon especially, lends itself really well to this method, as it’s meaty flesh means it can hold its shape and take on marinades and rubs really well. I came across the following recipe for Roast Salmon with Hasselback Potatoes and loved how it subtly twists two of the main ‘roast components’ to make this dinner both lighter and prettier (something very important in this Instagram age…). The earthy flavour of the salmon is brought to life by the light acidity of lemon and the freshness of bright, green herbs; paired with a simple salad, it was amazingly easy and perfect for those Sundays in a lazy, summer haze.

As a little extra note: hasselback potatoes have to be the most fun way to cook potatoes. Not only do they look like cute little hedgehogs, but they are the perfect mix of crispy chip-like texture and the fluffiness of jackets. Absolute winner.

Recipe: Roast Salmon with Hasselback Potatoes

Serves 8.

For the salmon:

  • 2 whole sides salmon, skin-on
  • 6 black peppercorns
  • 2 tsp coriander seeds
  • 2 tsp juniper berries (optional)
  • handful fresh dill, finely chopped
  • handful fresh parsley, finely chopped
  • 1 x 30g pack chives, snipped
  • 2 lemons, 1 zested, 1 sliced
  • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • 100ml white wine or Pernod (optional)

For the potatoes:

  • 8 medium white potatoes
  • 50g (2oz) butter

For the salad:

  • 240g (8oz) watercress, spinach and rocket salad
  • 100g (3 1/2oz) pitted green olives, sliced
  • 100g (3 1/2oz) radishes, sliced
  • 1/2 x 285g jar sun-dried tomatoes in oil, roughly chopped

Method.

  1. Preheat the oven to gas 6/200°C/fan 180°C. Line a roasting tin with a sheet each of kitchen foil and nonstick baking paper large enough to scrunch up around the salmon, but not cover it. Put a piece of salmon, skin-side down, in the tin.
  2. Using a pestle and mortar, finely grind the peppercorns, coriander seeds and juniper berries (if using) with 1 tsp salt. Set aside.
  3. In a bowl, combine the dill, parsley, 2/3 of the chives (reserving the remainder for the salad) and all but 1 tsp of the spice mixture. Add the lemon zest, then discard the remaining skin and pith and cut the flesh into small segments. Add to the herb mixture, squeezing out as much juice as you can with the back of a spoon. Stir in 1 tbsp of the oil.
  4. Spread the herb mixture over the salmon flesh, then top with the second piece of salmon, skin-side up. Tie the fish together with kitchen string, tucking a lemon slice under each piece. Scatter over the remaining spice mixture and drizzle with the remaining oil. Scrunch up the sides of the foil and nonstick paper to catch the juices.
  5. For the potatoes, slice each one at 3-4mm intervals, cutting just over halfway down. Put the butter in a roasting tin and melt in the oven. Add the potatoes to the tin and toss in the butter to ensure the cuts are well coated. Season.
  6. Roast the salmon and potatoes for 50 minutes. After 20 minutes, add the white wine or Pernod to the salmon (if using, otherwise add a little cold water), basting occasionally with the juices. Turn and baste the potatoes every so often in the butter. Remove the salmon after the cooking time and leave to rest in a warm place. Continue cooking the potatoes for 10-15 minutes, until tender and golden.
  7. Meanwhile, make the salad. Put all the ingredients in a serving bowl, along with the reserved chives, and toss to combine with a little oil from the jar of sun-dried tomatoes and a squeeze of lemon.
  8. Serve the roasted salmon in slices with the potatoes and the salad.

Giving Cancer a Kick

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With the passing of time comes certain assurances, certain ‘definites’ that we know the seasons will bring. Now fully into May, the trees are turning lush and verdant, blossom petals open out gracefully to bask in warmth of the Spring sun, and birds’ gentle melodies gradually crescendo as the days roll on, welcoming the lighter mornings with glee and gratification. In fact, one of the most beautiful things about time ticking forward is its element of predictability; we know what gifts each season has to offer and we can look forward at the months to come in the safety of expectation.

In a similar and strange kind of way, the predictability of Marge’s reaction to chemotherapy brings with it a certain reassurance; we know her reactions and, in turn, how we need to respond. At first she is abound with energy as the steroids pulse through her body (cue Marge completing niggling DIY jobs and overdue spring cleaning), then after a few days her buoyancy begins to sink, her vitality is aggressively rung out and the colour drains from her cheeks dragging with it her zeal and vigour. By the weekend, a horizontal position is her default position and we all brace ourselves for the most difficult few days.

Far from a pleasant routine, but at least we are familiar with the pattern. The whole experience would be so much worse if these side effects were random and sporadic, giving us no time to prepare both mentally and physically. The monotony of the journey has become almost a comfort and no more so in this last round. Marge may be feeling at her worst, but her worst is a fleeting condition, a 4/5 day period that will hopefully soon be banished to memory. It is a weird concept to comprehend, feeling grateful for the regularity of ‘sickness’, yet it seems fitting given the whole idea of chemotherapy is incredibly paradoxical: that something that is supposed to be healing can cause so much anguish.

There is no denying that the systematic repetition of chemotherapy offers a strange solace, taking away some of the fear and uncertainty. Of course, that doesn’t mean to say that life should be lived in the safety of routine, sometimes the most uplifting events are those that come as a surprise. On those days when leaving the house isn’t an option and you are confined to sedated activities, each second ticks by with painful tedium, as you wait in keen anticipation for the next stage. Unexpected events that pull you out of the uniform, almost slumber-like state are a saviour, a welcome distraction from chemo’s rigid timetable.

Last week, just as the side-effects were beginning to kick in, we decided to put that notion into practice and my younger brother made a trip home from University (in the middle of his finals no less) to surprise Marge. Despite her lack of energy, her feelings of joy instantly recharged her batteries, releasing the colour back into her cheeks and it was amazing to see her leap up off the sofa to give Lewis a big bear hug and a giant smacker on his cheek – the ‘welcome home’ every young man dreams of!

Given that the anticipation is particularly poignant in this last round, we were lucky that Lewis’s return home was not the only interruption over the last few days. Though not a sudden surprise – this one had been brewing for the last 9 months and just recently came to a head – the talking point of the family has been Leicester City winning the league. Though the only real football fans are the boys of the family, the excitement caused by this unforeseen event has ricocheted through the family and into our surrounding circles. Text after email and phone call came in congratulating my Dad on Leicester’s success (for all that effort he put in!) and, as Marge teased, her chemo was very much an after-thought with most messages reading something along the lines of: “Well done to Leicester, and I hope chemo goes OK!”

Again, we find ourselves in a strange position. Should Marge not feel slightly snubbed by the fact that she isn’t the main subject of these messages? Well, no. The fact that she isn’t at the forefront of everyone’s minds is a relief. Life is slowly returning to how it was, with more trivial news and casual chat making up the majority of conversation. Cancer is now on the bench and football talk has, amazingly, given her a sense of pre-chemo normality in a period a exhausting abnormality and weirdness.

To celebrate both Leicester’s footballing success and ‘normality’ in all its bizarre manifestations, I wanted  to cook a meal with a real kick. A couple of weeks ago, my lovely boyfriend bought me Sabrina Ghayour’s Persiana, the most beautifully written book full of simple yet vibrant and flavoursome recipes. With page after page of golden, warm colours, full-bodied ingredients, zingy garnishes and deep, earthy spices, it was a struggle to decide on the best recipe for the occasion. In the end, I opted for one that seemed to capture all those things: her Spiced Vegetable Soup. With a subtly sweet base of squash, onions and leeks, the soup is brought life by the acidic punch of vine tomatoes, the gentle heat of chilli and then a generous drizzle of the most beautifully intense herb oil, which not only lifts the soup’s flavour but is a splash vibrant colour on an otherwise earthy dish. Simple to make (you can add any combination of veg you fancy, I added kale as an extra) but a intriguing amalgamation of tastes and textures. As a dish, it quite simply hits the back of the net!

Healthy Ingredients

Winter Squashes – Winter squashes such as butternut and acorn squashes and pumpkins are good sources of complex carbohydrates making them anti-inflammatory and antioxidant as well as giving them insulin-regulating properties. Their wide range of nutrients, such as alpha- and beta-carotene, vitamin C, magnesium and manganese improve cardiovascular health, as does their folate content. They are also a great digestive aid given their high fibre content.

Recipe: Spiced Vegetable Soup

Serves 4.

  • olive oil
  • butternut squash  peeled, deseeded and cut into 4cm chunks
  • onions 2 large or 3 small, diced; plus 1 cut in half and thinly sliced into half moons
  • 3 fat garlic cloves, crushed
  • 3 leeks, trimmed, cleaned and finely chopped
  • 3 potatoes, unpeeled, cut into 4cm rough chunks
  • 5 ripe vine tomatoes, roughly chopped into chunks
  • 4 heaped tsp ground cumin
  • 1 heaped tsp ground cinnamon
  • 2 tsp smoked sweet paprika
  • 3 tsp chilli paste (or 1 tsp chilli flakes plus 1 tbsp tomato puree)
  • sea salt
  • black pepper freshly ground
  • 2 x 400g cans chickpeas (reserve the liquid, plus a couple of handfuls of chickpeas to garnish)
  • 2 large courgettes, finely diced
  • 200g kale, stalks removed
  • feta cheese 100g (optional)

For the herb oil

  • 6 tbsp olive oil 6 tbsp
  • Good handful flat-leaf parsley
  • Good handful dill
  • Good handful coriander, plus extra, chopped, to garnish
  • Handful pistachio nuts
  • Squeeze lemon juice

Method.

  1. Preheat a large saucepan over a medium heat and put in enough olive oil to generously coat the base of the pan. Add the butternut squash, diced onions, garlic, leeks and potatoes and sauté, without browning, until the vegetables soften slightly.
  2. Add the tomatoes, spices and chilli paste (or chilli flakes and tomato puree) and give it all a good stir to ensure the spices are evenly coating the vegetables.
  3. Cover the vegetables completely with freshly boiled water, add a generous amount of sea salt and a good amount of black pepper, stir once more and cook for 30 minutes on a gentle boil.
  4. Insert a knife into the squash and, when it is soft, purée the mixture in a food processor or blender until you get a lovely even, smooth soup.
  5. Once smooth, add the chickpeas and their liquid and stir well. At this stage you can add some more water to achieve your desired soup consistency, and check the seasoning to see if more salt or pepper is needed.
  6. Cook for a further 20 minutes, then add the courgette and kale and cook for a final 15-20 minutes before serving.
  7. While the soup is simmering away, drizzle some olive oil into a large frying pan set on a high heat and fry the sliced onion until brown and crispy. Add the reserved chickpeas and brown them with the onions. Season, then using a slotted spoon, remove the onions and chickpeas from the pan and set aside.
  8. To make the herb oil, put the olive oil, parsley, dill and coriander in a small blender (or bowl) with the pistachios, lemon juice, sea salt and pepper. Blitz (with a hand blender) until finely chopped and with the consistency of pesto. If you need to slacken the mixture, add a bit more oil.
  9. Pour the soup into large bowls, then generously crumble in the feta (if using). Drizzle a couple of tablespoons of the herb oil into each bowl over the feta. Finally, add the reserved crispy fried onions and chickpeas. Finish with a little freshly chopped coriander (if using). Serve with some nice crusty bread.

Bowled Over

Today is the day that seemed like a lifetime away. The day that was stubbornly dragging its feet like a sulky child and inflicting every ounce of displeasure it could on those that were willing it come around. The day of Marge’s last chemotherapy session.

Though the journey is by no means over and the next couple of weeks will undoubtedly be difficult as Marge struggles through the same cruel and monotonous side effect pattern, it is an optimistic benchmark, the beginning of the end. Just as the weather forecast is finally showing signs of the new season, of long bright days and sunshine and warmth, a new season is upon us too. We have spring cleaned our outlook and adopted a new and positive determinism. As Marge perfectly summed up, our reaction to the next stage now is “bring it on!”

With this fresh optimism comes fresh tastes, bright colours and zingy flavours. Meals are so often an extension of our personalities and moods. When we are sad or lonely we seek comfort in rich ingredients and dense textures, offering us the condolence – company almost – we crave, through their full-bodied and luxurious flavours. Yet when we have adopted a new lease of life, an increased vitality and happier state of mind, we seek out those lighter, vibrant meals which fill us with energy and reflect our renewed zeal.

A cheerful meal is, of course, not just reflected in its tastes and textures – in fact the first impression you get of a meal’s ‘mood’ is its appearance; the colours and tones of the ingredients and its appearance on the plate. The way food is presented has become so much more important to me since I have started cooking for Marge’s recovery. I have already written at length about her lack of taste and my attempt to combat this with bold flavour and unique texture combinations, but one other way to to fight the food fatigue is through aesthetics. Beautiful food is, without a doubt, a holistically satisfying experience. Though the often beige and dull-looking junk foods give us fleeting moments of pleasure, do they ever really tempt us with their aesthetic allure? Simply, no. They are a response to our cravings. Yet a vivd rainbow of fresh, healthy ingredients stimulates an appetite they may have not already exists; it awakens all the senses, way beyond the tastebuds.

When a plate of food is attractive to look at, it also shows a care and love that goes beyond that of simply the ingredient combinations themselves. It shows that thought is being given to the entire eating experience, that the cook has thought outside of the box (or the pan) and is taking into account all of the eaters’ needs and pleasures. This is even more important for Marge when one of her senses has been cruelly taken away and she is unable to share in the fundamental pillar of meal time. It allows her to jointly enjoy the beauty and aesthetic delight of dinnertime.
With the sun coming out and the comforting dark tones and deep flavours of the past season shrinking back with the winter shadows, we are now into the season of vibrancy.
The Lunson family’s new beginnings are ready to be reflected on the plate. Whenever I think of bright colours and bold flavours, I do tend to mentally migrate towards South America and, more specifically, Mexico. Ingredients such as limes, peppers, chillis, corn, and sweet potatoes simply light up a plate and completely encapsulate a sunny disposition. Perusing through food blogs and recipe websites, I came across a meal that would be a feast for the mouth and the eyes on the brilliant food blog, Cookie and Kate. Her Spicy Sweet Potato and Green Rice Bowl screams colour and vitality and would be the perfect way to celebrate entering a new phase in Marge’s treatment. Full of wholesome ingredients and contrasting textures, it would give Marge a thoroughly enjoyable eating experience even if her tastebuds have been clouded by her treatment.

I did alter the above recipe a bit, adding a few more spices and flavours to the black beans, and the toppings are completely down to preference. The beauty with bowl recipes is that they can be dictated by your day-to-day fancies, dietary requirements, or even simply what your fridge and cupboards allow. The list of ingredients may be long but please don’t panic! The method itself is gloriously easy and the end product is a delight to both eat and admire. The balanced meal which will also add a bit of colour to your life.

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Healing Ingredients

Chilli – Chilli’s volatile oils, particularly capsaicin, have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects and give chilli its cholesterol-lowering (‘unhealthy’ LDL cholesterol levels), blood-sugar balancing and appetite suppressing properties. Chillis are known to stimulate digestion and boost metabolism as well as encouraging the body’s natural detox process by promoting increased sweating. 

Avocado – Full of healthy monounsaturated oils and antioxidants, avocados can lower blood pressure and protect from heart disease and stroke as well as lubricate joints, as they are a good source of omega-3 fatty acids. The fats in this fruit are unique and are known for their anti-inflammatory benefits, they are also thought to boost fertility.

Recipe: Spicy Sweet Potato, Black Bean and Green Rice Bowl

Serves 4.

Green rice:

  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 300g brown rice
  • 750 ml vegetable stock
  • 3 large handfuls baby spinach
  • 1 small bunch coriander, leaves removed
  • 1-2 green chilli peppers, seeded, membranes removed and roughly chopped
  • 1 medium red onion, peeled and roughly chopped
  • 1 large garlic clove, peeled, roughly chopped
  • Sea salt and black pepper, to taste

Sweet potatoes:

  • 3 medium sweet potatoes, cut into 1-inch chunks
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • ½ teaspoon smoked paprika
  • ¼ teaspoon sea salt

Seasoned black beans:

  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2 cans black beans (or kidney beans, or both)
  • 2 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 tsp oregano
  • ½ tsp chilli powder
  • Pinch cayenne pepper
  • 1 tbsp tomato puree
  • 1 tsp sherry vinegar or lime juice
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Optional garnishes:

  • Pumpkin seeds, lightly toasted in a dry frying pan
  • 2 avocados, pitted and sliced
  • Chopped coriander
  • Crumbled feta
  • Chopped cherry/plum tomatoes or tomato salsa
  • Sweetcorn
  • Cooked chicken/beef

Method.

  1. Preheat oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7.
  2. Place the spinach, coriander, chilli pepper, onion, garlic, seasoning and 150ml of the vegetable stock into a food processor or blender. Blend until smooth.
  3. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the rice and stir to coat, frying until lightly browned.
  4. Add the green purée into the rice. Stir until the rice is evenly coated and continue to cook, stirring constantly, for a minute. Add the rest of the vegetable broth to the pot, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a low simmer and cover the pot. Cook the rice on a very low simmer until tender (35 to 40 minutes).
  5. Whilst the rice is cooking, toss the sweet potatoes in the olive oil, smoked paprika and salt until the sweet potatoes are evenly coated in oil. Arrange in a single layer on a prepared baking sheet. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, tossing halfway, until the sweet potatoes are tender and caramelising at the edges.
  6. In a separate pan, fry the onion for about 5 minutes until golden and softened. Add the garlic and fry for a couple of minutes longer before adding the beans and their cooking liquid (don’t drain the beans) to the pan. Stir in the cumin, oregano, chilli powder, cayenne pepper tomato puree and warm over medium heat. Once the beans are simmering,reduce heat to a gentle simmer uncovered to reduce until you’re ready to serve.
  7. Once the rice is cooked, remove the pan from heat and place a clean tea towel over the pan (this will help absorb excess liquid as the rice continues to cook in its own steam) and let it sit for approx. 10 minutes.
  8. Fluff the rice with a fork and season with salt if necessary. Remove the sweet potatoes from the oven and the beans from heat, stir in the vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper.
  9. Now it’s time to assemble your bowls: First add green rice, then use a slotted spoon to transfer beans to the bowls and top with sweet potatoes and any other garnishes you are using. Let your imagination and artistic flair run wild!

Giving Life Flavour

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Eating is one of life’s most simple and yet most enjoyable and gratifying pleasures. Not only for the sensory experiences it gives you, delighting the eyes, the nose, the mouth and even the ears (I can’t be the only one who squeals with delight at the ‘pop’ of a newly opened a jar of pickled onions or subtle ‘crack’ as you break through the glistening, caramelised crust of a creme brûlée), but also for the pleasure of company. Eating is (or should be) a social tradition. It is a shared joy, bringing people together as they add flavour to their mouths and lives.

So imagine what it must be like to have an element of this joy altered or taken away. To not be able share in the delights experienced by those around you, remaining excluded and unfairly cast out from common pleasure. This is exactly what happens to many going through chemotherapy (about 50% apparently), Marge included. Sense of taste is altered by the chemicals, causing varied meals to be marred by an indistinguishable and unpleasant bitterness, to have an unpalatable hallmark stamped on all ingredients, irrespective of flavour.

This blog has brought so much ‘flavour’ to my life; it has given me a new sense of purpose and an outlet to help cope with this difficult time. So it seems only fair and natural that I try and do the same for my favourite lady. I want to make Marge’s eating experience as pleasurable as possible in the given circumstances. To combat a blanket, rancid taste, I cannot go in all soft and cosy. Quite the opposite – I need to blow her away with an explosion of taste, awaken her mouth with the intrigue of texture. I am talking bold flavours, interesting and new food combinations, and fresh ingredients.

Unintentionally this has taken me back to Ottolenghi― not only is he the master of the vegetable but, in my eyes, he is the king of flavour. Middle-eastern food has always been a favourite of mine, bold and brash both in colour and taste. Middle-eastern cuisine, which makes up the majority of Ottolenghi’s unique and, quite frankly, fantastic recipes, perfectly partners different ingredients that have complimenting and yet contrasting tastes. For example, the earthy nuttiness of tahini interlaced with the subtle, sweetness of squash or, in the case of his Chicken Drumsticks with Pomegranate and Oregano, the deep saltiness of soy sauce gets gently lifted by honey but then simultaneously intensified by the tangy, sticky sweetness of pomegranate seeds and molasses.

When I cooked this recipe as ‘something different to a Sunday roast’ Marge not only cleared her plate but the rich flavours meant she could savour the flavours and be part of the shared enjoyment. Yet the true beauty of this recipe is the pool of intense, syrupy juices lingering seductively at the bottom of the tray – great use was made of this dunking opportunity. This is flavour to knock that acrid taste on its… bottom!

Other things you can do to manage taste changes:

  • Maintain good oral hygiene – brush your teeth before and after each meal.
  • Choose and prepare foods that look and smell good to you.
  • Eat small, frequent meals.
  • Do not eat 1-2 hours before chemotherapy and up to 3 hours after therapy.
  • Use plastic utensils if food tastes like metal.
  • Eat mints (or sugar-free mints), chew gum (or sugar-free gum) or chew ice to mask the bitter or metallic taste.
  • Substitute poultry, eggs, fish, peanut butter, beans and dairy products for red meats.
  • Marinate meats in sweet fruit juices, wines, salad dressing, BBQ sauce, or sweet and sour sauces.
  • Flavour foods with herbs, spices, sugar, lemon, and tasty sauces.
  • Chilled or frozen food may be more acceptable than warm or hot food.
  • Try tart foods such as oranges or lemonade (this may be painful if mouth sores are present).
  • Avoid cigarette smoking.
  • Eliminate bad odours.
  • Eat in pleasant surroundings to better manage taste changes.
  • Increase your fluid intake.
  • Ask another person to cook for you, or rely on prepared foods from a store if you can’t stand the smell of food (Marge has this one covered).
  • Importantly, don’t force yourself to eat foods that taste bad to you. Find substitutes that you can tolerate.

Recipe: Chicken Drumsticks with Pomegranate and Oregano

Serves four.

  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 8 chicken drumsticks
  • Flaky sea salt
  • 500g banana shallots (or red onions), peeled and trimmed
  • 1 garlic head, cloves separated and peeled
  • 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses
  • 3 tbsp light soy sauce
  • 1 tbsp maple syrup
  • 4cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
  • 10g oregano sprigs (or 1 tsp dried), plus 1 tsp finely chopped leaves, to serve (or handful of chopped parsley)
  • Seeds from ½ small pomegranate

Method.

  1. Heat the oven to 200C/390F/gas mark 6. Heat the oil in a large frying pan on a medium-high flame, then place the drumsticks in the pan, sprinkle over half a teaspoon of salt and fry, turning regularly, for 10 minutes, until golden-brown all over. Transfer to a large bowl and leave the pan on the heat.
  2. Fry the shallots for four minutes, shaking the pan a few times. Add the garlic, fry for another minute, until golden, add to the chicken bowl, then combine with the molasses, soy sauce, maple syrup, ginger, oregano sprigs and 50ml water.
  3. Pour everythings onto a baking tray and cover tightly with aluminium foil. Roast for 20 minutes, then take off the foil, give it a stir and roast for 10 minutes more, until the chicken is cooked through and the shallots and garlic are soft.
  4. Remove from the oven, stir in the chopped oregano (or parsley) leaves and pomegranate seeds, and serve.

For more info on taste change during chemotherapy see:

University of Michigan Health System Comprehensive Cancer Center

Chemcare.com

Cancer.net

Breastcancer.org

Broadening the Repertoire

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As we are now coming to the end of Marge’s chemo treatment (5 down, 1 to go) I have been looking back and reflecting over the recipes I have cooked over the last 15 weeks or so. All of them Marge has enjoyed, all I would make or have already made again (whether my ‘meat and two veg’ Farge would say the same I’m not so sure…) and all of them have taught me something. Aside from the vast amount I have learnt about the nutritional qualities of the ingredients I am using, I feel that my cooking itself has benefited from my blogging journey too. In some cases, I stumbled across new and exciting flavour or texture combinations, in others I found out different techniques or ways to cook ingredients to get the most out of their nutritional qualities (see Rooting for Other Causes), and sometimes it was as simple as discovering a fantastic new food writer or blogger, who now firmly has a place in my recipe repertoire.

However, by far the biggest and most surprising revelation has been how incredibly versatile the humble vegetable is and how satisfying, varied and extraordinarily delicious vegetarian and vegan cooking can be. This is by no means to say that I have turned the whole family off meat and fish (I am not sure I am ready to wave goodbye to steak just yet, be it in beef or tuna form) but a lot of the recipes I have gravitated towards when trying to ensure Marge maintains a healthy and nutritionally varied diet throughout her treatment have just so happened to be either vegan or vegetarian.

I am sure that part of this is down to taste; Marge has always been a big fan of the green stuff, a trait which has been passed down and adopted (admittedly slightly over-enthusiastically) by me. Yet I am also certain that a lot of it comes down to learning, to knowing just how many different flavours can be created by one ingredient, how you can manipulate one single food to create glorious, contrasting textures that excite and delight the eater. Take cauliflower for example, a vegetable once condemned to soggy Sunday roasts or masked by the heavy, salty charm of a cheese sauce. In recent years there has been an astounding U-turn in this unassuming brassica’s fortunes and it has made somewhat of a cauli-comeback. This is simply down to increasing knowledge of what can be done with it: roasting, ricing, stir frying the leaves, barbecuing the whole head and drizzling with tahini… (those who have not yet gone to Berber & Q please sort this, you will be in fluffy, cauliflower cloud heaven). I am convinced that this is why I seem to be cooking so many meatless dishes – the veg are simply the stars of the show.

One chef who I have always admired for the magic he creates and the attention he gives the honest vegetable is Yotam Ottolenghi. Perhaps one of my all-time favourite things to eat is his Roast Butternut Squash and Red Onion with Tahini and Za’atar. Made for me for the first time by a friend a few years back, it is a dish that never left my memory. The subtle nuttiness of the tahini gently lifts and exaggerates the sweetness of the squash and the onions, and the floral, herby notes from the za’atar then follow, dancing across your taste buds to create the most delightful and multi-faceted culinary experience. It is simple, natural ingredients cooked in an exceptional way. In my opinion, this is what great cooking is about.

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Ottolenghi is also very knowledgeable on how he can use vegetables to ‘replicate’ the properties of meat and fish that we are looking for in our dishes. One of the meals I cooked this week, his Saffron and Broad Bean Paella, demonstrates just that. Underneath a tougher, peppery skin, the inner broad bean is a sweet and juicy delicacy that ‘mirrors’ (albeit with its own unique flair) the sought after texture and flavour of prawns. This dish is soul food – wholly satisfying and completely delicious. Though I am not going to delve into the long list of reasons why both us and the world would be more healthy if we ate less meat, the fact that vegetables can be just as enjoyable and perhaps more versatile than their carne counterparts gives us one less excuse to always look to meat as being the main element of our meals. Expanding your repertoire and basing dishes around vegetables will force you out of your comfort zone. Experiments lead to revelations and if you just research a few new techniques and recipes, you will soon be (veget)able to create nutritional but also show-stopping meals.

Healthy Ingredients

Saffron is a potent antioxidant, containing crocin, safranal and picrocrocin, which can help prevent age-related loss of vision, hardening of the arteries and inhibit the growth of cancer cells. It may also help treat insomnia and lift depression. As a stimulant, it can help improve circulation and its anti-inflammatory properties may be useful in treating asthma and allergies.

Recipe: Saffron and Broad Bean Paella

Serves 4.

  • 450g podded broad beans (fresh or frozen)
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 onions, peeled and roughly chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1 1/2 tsp sweet smoked paprika
  • 1/2 tsp saffron threads
  • 3 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
  • 300g paella rice
  • 150ml dry sherry
  • 750ml vegetable stock
  • 300g cherry tomatoes, cut in half
  • 5 strips finely shaved lemon skin, plus 2 tsp lemon juice
  • Salt and black pepper
  • Handful of flatleaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped

Method.

  1. Bring a small saucepan of salted water to a boil, blanch the beans for a minute, then drain, refresh and remove the papery skins (I know this is a lot of effort but it will be worth it!).
  2. Heat the oil in a large saute pan (or paella pan) on a medium-high flame. Fry the onion for seven to eight minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and caramelised, then add the garlic and fry for a minute.
  3. Add the paprika, saffron, thyme and rice, stir for a minute, to coat all the rice, then add the sherry and reduce for 30 seconds.
  4. Stir in the stock, 150ml water, the tomatoes, lemon skin, a teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper, bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to medium.
  5. Simmer for 20-25 minutes – don’t stir! This gives it that gnarly, crisp bottom (the bits everyone wants) – until the liquid is absorbed and the rice cooked. Lift out and discard the lemon strips, spoon the broad beans on top of the rice, scatter on the parsley, drizzle with lemon juice and serve immediately.

She’s Got Balls… (and Great Friends)!

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Chemo is a long and arduous journey; not one consisting of gentle rolling hills and manageable pathways but of steep downwards slopes and treacherous jagged edges, a journey of hostile storms. Every so often it seems the sun manages to crack its way through the grey and impending clouds, bringing with it energy and health, but it is soon muffled again and any vitality and hope accompanying the light is dulled by the overbearing darkness.

Yet, like any strenuous journey or task, it is often the small things that keep you going, little actions or words that light your path when the sunlight can’t quite reach you. Without a doubt, throughout the entirety of Marge’s treatment her friends have been her fireflies, her Chinese lanterns floating beauty and joy into the gloom. Each week I am amazed by their kindness, attentiveness and generosity, not just in terms of gifts but in terms of their time and emotional commitment. Not a day goes by when Marge doesn’t receive a letter, a phone call, a bunch of flowers, some homemade treats or even a full blown chemo ‘survival kit’ to boost her spirits (the latter was a gift from my best friend and her mum – I also can’t overstate how phenomenal my friends have been throughout this whole thing).

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There is only so much a family can do to support a loved one through hard times; to know that your support network casts itself far wider than those you live with does so much for strength and perseverance. I am incredibly grateful that Marge has such an amazing circle of people around her, both locally and from further afield, who I know will always be there to aid and strengthen her throughout her journey.

In fact, it was down to her close friends that I didn’t spend every hour of my recent holiday worrying about how she was doing. Unfortunately, Marge took a real turn for the worst just before I left and so pulling myself away from her felt like pulling out a stubborn tooth – I just didn’t want to let go. Yet her regular updates, full of assurances of rest and recovery, soon started to be littered with stories of social occasions and lively meet ups – the best evidence to sooth my concerns (as I know what mums are like, they will do anything to shield their children from distress and fear…).

Of course, as soon as I got home I wanted to cook something to celebrate her braveness for pulling through such an exhausting and difficult time (and without my cooking, who would have thought it?!). What better way than a dish with balls? Something rich and comforting yet also healthy and flavoursome. I had recently come across a recipe on Naturally Sassy which, as it was full of garlic, tomatoes and herbs, seemed to hit the back of the net – Spaghetti/Courgetti with Black Bean Balls. I adapted her marinana recipe slightly to use a one passed down from Marge herself, adding a hint of chilli to give it that extra zing, and served it with courgetti as Marge had a smaller appetite than normally after grazing on large quantities of her friend’s brownies! A really delicious and comforting yet fresh weekday meal that Marge really enjoyed… she really is one ballsy woman.

Healing Ingredients

Garlic’s main beneficial elements are allicin and diallyl sulphides-sulphorous compounds that are antibacterial and antifungal. It is.universally recognised for its health-promoting benefits: detoxifying, aiding the circulatory and digestive systems, boosting immunity, lowering blood pressure, and fighting heart disease. A regular consumption of garlic lowers the amino acid homocysteine, a risk factor in heart disease and diabetes and it is well recognised for helping prevent numerous types of cancer, including breast cancer.

Recipe: Spaghetti/Courgetti and Black Bean Balls

Serves 4.

  • 4 servings of spaghetti (any type of your choosing) and/or courgetti (4 courgettes if only using courgetti)

Black bean balls:

  • 2 can black beans, drained and rinsed
  • 100 brown rice flour
  • 1 tsp chili powder
  • 1 tsp coriander
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • 1 tsp sea salt
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed

Mariana sauce:

  • 1 tin chopped tomatoes
  • 1 tbsp tomato puree
  • splash of red wine/red wine vinegar/balsamic vinegar, to taste
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 1 tsp dried basil
  • 1 tsp dried chilli flakes
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed
  • 1 onion, diced
  • Sea salt and black pepper
  • A handful of chopped coriander

Method.

  1. Preheat the oven to 180˚C/gas 4/fan 170˚C.
  2. Start by making the black bean balls. Put the drained black beans in a food processor and blend until smooth before adding the remaining ingredients and blending again. If the mixture looks to dry, add a splash of water.
  3. With your hands form the mixture into balls. Heat up a frying pan with a drizzle of olive/coconut oil and cook the black bean balls for roughly 4 minutes, turning them so all sides crisp. Put them on a  baking tray tray and bake for a further 10 minutes.
  4. Meanwhile prepare the sauce. In a saucepan fry the onions in a little olive until they are soft and lightly golden, about 5 minnutes. Add the garlic and fry for a couple more minutes before adding the rest of the sauce ingredients, holding back some of the fresh coriander. Simmer until the sauce has reduced and has a thick, rich consistency.
  5. Prepare your pasta according to packet instructions, holding back a bit of of the cooking water or spiralise your courgettes.
  6. To compile, gently toss the pasta/courgetti in the marinana  (adding the reserved pasta water if using) before stirring in the meatballs. Sprinkle with the remaining coriander.

Mother of Pearl

Spring has now officially sprung. The days are gradually getting longer, the sun seems to have woken up from its slumber and is more frequently casting down its beaming smile and the faint smell of blossom and budding leaves lingers quietly in the air.

For Marge, who has always loved spring and the cheeriness it brings, the change of season meant a change of drug and that itself shone a ray of hope down on our family. Having previously received FEC chemotherapy, known for having particularity unpleasant and sicky side effects, the course of treatment has now moved on to docetaxel. Although by no means a walk in the park, the chemo nurse explained that though this drug may increase fatigue and lack of strength, it should also not cause as much nausea as FEC. This news was a huge relief for all of us as sickness was the side effect that Marge was struggling with the most and that induced the most concern within the family. Basically we were all counting down the days until the nausea would FEC off!

Chemo treatment number 4 came round as quickly as the others. It was, of course, accompanied by the familiar flurry of nerves and angst, yet this time these feelings were accompanied by mild optimism, an inkling that perhaps this time things won’t be so bad. In reality, our hopes and expectations were wholly understated. On the evening following treatment, I came through the front door to be greeted by Marge, in true seasonal style, bouncing up to greet me like the Easter bunny, all bright eyed and bushy tailed. Given that after the previous round she was confined to her bed and barely had the strength to lift her head off the pillow, the difference was almost implausible. Fantastic, but completely mind-boggling.

In fact, she was whizzing round the house like she was on steroids (which she was, and this had a lot to do with her amazing energy for the 36 hours or so following her treatment). I messaged her from work checking that she was feeling OK the following morning, only to be greeted by a long list of spring cleaning that she had completed – a list that included scrubbing the back of the fridge. It was 10.30am!

Unfortunately, this hyperactive state was only transient; as the effects of the steroids wore off, fatigue slowly draped itself over her and a persistent, dull ache swelled in her joints. Yet, as her nurse advised, the nausea remained absent. The meals following her chemo were not limited to childish comforts and plain, easily digestible dishes. Of course, this added another dimension to my glee, as it meant I could dive straight in with filling her up with minerals and goodness, rather than put my plans on hold for her stomach to stop its protest.

Although I adore spring, with its fresh optimism and cheerful tones, I do love the comfort and depth and colour and flavour of winter ingredients. So on one rainy weekday during chemo week, when it seemed weather appropriate, I took what was probably my final chance to use the best of the winter vegetables in a Butternut Squash and Kale Barlotto. I came across the recipe on one of my favourite vegan/veggie blogs – The Veg Space – and not only is it exceptionally easy but it is wonderfully hearty and flavoursome. Using barley instead of rice really adds to the comfort-factor of this dish. The nutty little pearls greedily absorb the cooking liquid, soaking up an abundance of flavour and swelling to almost double their size. This results in a gorgeously gelatinous and chewy texture. It is a pure delight to both eat and to look at, with the vibrant orange of the squash and deep green of kale working in perfect harmony. A pearl of a dish for a pearl of a woman.

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Healthy Ingredients

Barley has a number of brilliant medicinal properties. Due to its high fibre content (one portion provides almost half the daily recommended amount), it is fantastic at improving digestion and removing excess fat and cholesterol from the bloodstream, lowering the risk of hypertension and hardening of the arteries, thus improving heart health. Its fibre also feeds the good bacteria in the gut and, in turn, helps maintain a healthy colon. As a slow-release carbohydrate, its low glycemic index helps to improve blood sugar levels and reduce the risk of diabetes. 

Recipe: Butternut Squash and Kale Barlotto

Serves 4.

  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
  • 600g butternut squash, peeled and chopped into 1cm chunks
  • 250g pearl barley
  • 150ml white wine
  • 750ml vegetable stock
  • 100g curly kale, stalks removed
  • salt & pepper
  • 1 tbsp thyme leaves
  • zest of 1 lemon, juice of 1/2
  • handful pine nuts, toasted in a dry frying pan for a minute or two
  • Sprinkle of sumac (optional)

Method.

  1. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, and cook the onion  for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and the butternut squash and cook for a further 2 minutes.
  2. Add the pearl barley and white wine to the pan, turn up the heat and cook for 3 minutes until most of the wine has cooked away.
  3. Add the stock and season with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil then reduce to a simmer and cook for 25 minutes, stirring every few minutes.
  4. Add the curly kale, and cook for a further 5 minutes until the pearl barley is tender, but still a little bit squidgy and chewy. Remove from the heat, stir through the thyme, lemon juice and lemon zest, then divide between bowls, scatter with the pine nuts and sprinkle with the sumac to serve.